It had been more than twenty hours since I left the Himalayan foothills to descend into the Ganges River plain. Laying in my sleeping berth at the top of the train with sweat rolling down my face, I was in prayer preparing myself for my destination. I was traveling to Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, in order to see what God was doing in the midst of darkness. In the New Testament we see that on his missionary journeys, Paul the apostle was not naive about the spiritual darkness of the places where he was taking the Gospel. Rather than ignoring the idols that captivated the hearts of his hearers, Paul observed (Acts 17:16) the satanic means through which men were blinded and kept from "seeing the light of the gospel of the glory of Christ." To followers of Jesus, blatant idolatry is one of the most hideous things that can be seen. It is no wonder that when in Athens it says Paul's "spirit was provoked within him." Like those in Daniel's day, when confronted with idolatry, he stood firm and took action. He opened his mouth and proclaimed the Good News of a crucified and resurrected Messiah. In our day, also, there's no room for us to ignore the demon inspired realities which hold sway over the world and are so acutely visible in places like Varanasi. I've found in my own life that when I've been confronted with these realities, like Paul, my spirit has been provoked within me and the Holy Spirit has placed a burden upon my heart. This burden has led to action and fueled my desire to see Jesus Christ worshipped in the hearts of all people.

VARANASI’S IDOLATRY
I reached Varanasi late in the evening after a twenty-seven hour train ride. Stepping off the train, I was greeted by two young men who help with an orphanage housed on the the Church of Banaras’ property. The city was called Banaras by the Moghuls who once ruled North India. They were the Muslim invaders whose mighty armies swept across Central Asia, through the Indus River valley, and into North India. In ancient times, the Hindus referred to the city as Kashi, which means "city of light," called so because Brahmin priests would gather here to offer pujas and seek cleansing from sin. Mark Twain once wrote, “"Banaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together." The oldest continually inhabited city, Hindus consider it to be the most sacred place on earth. They believe this because the entire course of the Ganges River runs from north to south, but there is one stretch where the river bends and flows north before bending back south. This is where Varanasi lies. 

As the center of Hinduism it is also the center of Indian culture. Many Hindu poets have found their inspiration here upon the Ganges' banks and in Varanasi's crowded streets. In the old city sadhus (ascetic "holy" men) meditate on the streets, vainly trying to seek peace by searching inward. Some even walk naked as an act of penance thinking that the great shame will atone for their sin. All along the riverfront are ghats (steps leading into the river) where people come and bathe. This, they also believe, takes away their sin. More than 40,000 souls come everyday to perform this ritual in the river's filthy waters. After bathing, many men's heads are shaved, leaving a small strand of hair extending from the crown. They leave this clinging to the belief that if they were to die then a Hindu god would grab them by this strand of hair and whisk them away into enlightenment. 

One day during my visit, I went to the river banks with two Christian workers. We saw along the river dead bodies being burned on funeral pyres. To the Hindu, when performed in Varanasi, this act guarantees escape from the cycle of reincarnation and the beginning of moksha, enlightenment. So, the pyres burn every hour of the day in order to keep pace with the dead. Here, I saw profound examples of the foolishness of man-made, demon inspired religion. Hindu temples can be seen wherever one gazes and the city may be more populated with idols than people. Some of these idols are made with wood and stone and some are living creatures. While walking through the narrow enclaves of a market, I crossed paths with a boy who had been painted and dressed to represent Krishna, one of Vishnu's capricious avatars. This boy, along with brahma bulls and other creatures, is worshipped and venerated by people living in darkness. With darkened hearts, they would rather hold on to rituals and foolish traditions rather than drink from the true fountain of life.  

The ultimate conclusion of man’s depravity is visible everywhere as it seeps from the pores of society. I was struck by this over and over again, once as we drove past a fine jewelry store with a massive brahma bull sitting in the middle of the floor! Never was it clearer to me that fallen man has "exchanged the truth about God for a lie and worshipped and served the creature rather than the Creator" (Romans 1:25). Hudson Taylor's words, written on one of his early evangelistic journeys in China after visiting a Buddhist monastery, could be appropriately applied to the Hinduism of Varanasi:

"Here were the rich and learned as well as the poor and wretched, here the gaily-appareled and the meanly clad, all victims of the same heathen superstitions, servants of the same master. Nothing could be more evident than that idolatry was here a living system, flourishing unmolested by soldiers of the Cross...Here was one single institution, swarming with priests and those in training for that office, its idols to be numbered by hundreds...all richly painted, as was every part of the establishment, and gilding in profusion lavished upon them. Nothing was omitted and no expense spared that the eye might be charmed and the beholder captivated, and to the thousands present, no doubt, the idolatrous ritual was of the most imposing kind..." (pg. 284-85, Hudson Taylor in Early Years: the Growth of a Soul).

VARANASI’S HOPE
My primary purpose for visiting this city, though, was not to see its idolatry but to see what God was doing. Although the darkness of the place can be oppressive, it is no longer true that the city’s living system of idolatry is unmolested by soldiers of the Cross. God has not left Himself without a witness to the true Light. 

In the early 1960s the first indigenous missionary traveled from South India to plant churches in Varanasi. After God miraculously healed him and saved his life, he left his secular employment and gave the rest of his life to ministry. He was a disciple of Bakht Singh and on a number of occasions hosted the itinerant church planter in his home. Before his death in the early 2000s, his son took over the pastoral duties his father was no longer able to perform. Just as his father had done before him, he left a good paying secular job in order to answer the call of God and he has now been the pastor for several years. The church’s evangelistic efforts have led to other churches being planted throughout the city and they are also a great help and encouragement to others working towards the same end. The church has a close relationship with many church planters working in Varanasi and its surrounding villages. 

An orphanage has also been established. About twenty children live on the grounds owned by the church and whenever you visit, there is a constant hustle and bustle as children and workers walk to and fro. Along with the children, high school teenagers live there, as well. They are students who were unable to make it at other schools, so the church is trying to help them earn a diploma while telling them of the Gospel. This aspect of the church's ministry can, at times, be very difficult and burdensome. Many of the students come from troubled backgrounds and tend to reject authority. While I was there we received word that one of the students had run away and it was clear that this caused them much pain.

One of the great physical needs common to many in India is clean drinking water. This is especially true for Christians. Due to their faith in Christ, they are often kept from sharing clean water sources with Hindus. So, they are left to whatever water they can find, which more often than not is filthy and polluted with disease causing bacteria and amoebas. In order to help the believers around Varanasi obtain clean drinking water, the church digs wells. Most of the digging is done in village areas where the water supply is more limited and the persecution of Christians is greater. This has been a rich blessing to thousands of Christians who once dealt with constant sickness and disease. It is a tangible demonstration of the love of Christ and a tangible demonstration of love for Christ: “For I was hungry and you gave me food, I was thirsty and you gave me drink...” (Matt. 25:35).

For more than a year, HeartCry has partnered with the church to support the church planters they serve. On two separate trips to Varanasi, I was able to spend time getting to know these men and see the work that God is doing in and through them. I was greatly encouraged by them. Through their lives and ministries it is clear that God is working in the hearts of the unbelieving “to open their eyes, so that they may turn from darkness to light and from the power of Satan to God” (Acts 26:18). What God did among the Thessalonians, He continues to do today (1 Thessalonians 1:9). 

They told me stories about the difficulty of missionary life near "the missionary graveyard" [Varanasi is close to Bihar, which for many years was called by this name]. Many of their stories sounded as if they could have been spoken by a church planter anywhere - co-laborers who had fallen away from the faith, the lack of purity and holiness in the lives of many who had professed Christ. But, they also told of difficulty caused by the idiosyncrasies of the place where they are working - escape from Hindu fanatics who had beaten them and were trying to kill them, telling of God’s judgement and Christ’s work to a Hindu holding a gun to one missionary's head. And they spoke of wrestling not against flesh and blood, but against the spiritual forces of evil in the heavenly places. Demonic oppression is very real in the place they work. Most who come to Varanasi to plant Christ's Church encounter intense demonic attack. One brother told about repeated encounters with the demonic when he arrived almost ten years ago. At first, his strength wavered and he wanted to flee and forget all about Varanasi. But, the Lord strengthened him and enabled him to persevere through it all. Now, the attacks are very rare. 

In spite of all the idolatry I saw, as I spent time with these men, Varanasi’s darkness receded away. What left the greatest impression on my mind and heart was not the wickedness of the place, but the triumph of the Gospel. Christ's power to transform was written on their faces and evident in the stories they told of God’s work. One day we went to a church building dedication service for one of the churches. It lasted for about four hours. Many people sang and prayed for hours, some with tears falling down their faces as they sang of the wondrous love of Jesus. We also prayed, especially for several evangelists who were a part of the church. They are primarily the ones out in the community constantly sharing the Gospel with both Hindus and Muslims. During the service, as I was sitting in front watching all the people worship the Lord, my eyes kept looking at the children as they were singing about Christ. I thought to myself, “These are children who will be raised, not hearing the vain superstitions of their ancestors, but hearing of the work of redemption that has been accomplished on their behalf.”

Varanasi is a dark place. But, it could be said here as it could be said all across the globe where Christ is truly worshipped: The Light shines in the darkness and the darkness has not overtaken it. Due to that I left the city greatly encouraged and filled with joy. The Church Triumphant continues to march and bear witness to the love of God in Christ Jesus our Lord!

When you think about the people living in darkness in Varanasi, perhaps an appropriate prayer would be the words of Isaac Watts:

“Pity the nations, O our God,
Constrain the earth to come;
Send thy victorious Word abroad
and bring the strangers home.
We long to see thy churches full,
that all the chosen race
may with one voice and heart and soul
sing thy redeeming grace.”